This week we have been surveying a Laing Easi-Form house for a prospective purchaser, the Laing Easiform is one of a range of house types that are considered as “non traditional construction” and which were generally erected immediately post the first world war and up to the 1960’s or so. As the name suggest it was a housing solution developed by John Laing, the well know contracting firm.
They were intended to be cutting edge, to be fast and cost effective to build and to meet the nations need for housing. They were widely adopted by Local Authorities, the MOD and other providers of social housing,
Well known styles and trade names, amongst others, include Laing Easi Form, Cornish, Airey, Boot and Wimpey No-Fines. Most often constructed of cast in situ concrete or concrete panels they seemed to be a panacea until the last part of the 20th century when it was realised that the houses were very often poorly built or poor quality concrete and in need of serious structural attention. So bad was the situation that many mortgage companies refused to lend on the properties and many housing types were designated as defective under the Housing Act 1985.
This post concentrates only on the Laing Easi-form type and must not be considered as advising on any other non traditional housing type.
So, what of the Laing Easi- Form? It is generally accepted as being one of the better of the type and is not [as far as we know] designated as defective under the Housing Act. It is we understand generally suitable for mortgage with several mortgage companies being prepared to lend against them [again, as far as we know, please take proper financial advice form a mortgage broker!]
The particular house that we looked at was in Eltham, London Borough of Greenwich where there is a fairly sizable estate of two storey terraced and semi detached Easi-Forms.
The type is widespread across London and the rest of the country and are generally of two construction types – type 1, which were built up and until 1925 or so and type 2 which were built between subsequently. More often than not you come across type 2 houses.
The construction of the earlier, less common, type is of solid concrete outer walls whilst the later type are of cast in situ cavity walls– typically 75mm thick inner and outer leaves with 50mm cavity. Externally the walls were originally finished externally with a render coat but may have subsequently been pebbledashed as part of refurbishment schemes by local authorities.
The concrete is reinforced in both skins by 4 horizontal steel bands above and below window openings – these can cause problems if the concrete cover is insufficient and they rust allowing the surface concrete to fall away in samll patches often exposing rusting beneath. Some remedial schemes have included the cutting out of defective concrete and the insertion of concrete block work repairs – unfortunately without destructive and invasive investigation such repairs cannot be easily identified unless the original render finishes have been patch repaired in these locations.
The structural pattern of an Easi-form building is very similar to a traditional cavity-walled brick dwelling with floor and roof loads are taken directly to the foundations via the load bearing inner skin of the external walls which are enhanced by wall tie connections to the outer skin. Some wall tie failure can occur as the ties were of steel.
Spotting an Easi-form can take a little time, especially as there were at least 25 different styles ranging from bungalows, through traditional looking houses to four storey apartment blocks. The styles have multiple plan forms and differing styles of external roof treatment – some hipped some gable ended.
Most of the clues are in the roof space and to the chimney stack – in the attic the party wall is most likely exposed cast concrete with evidence of horizontal casting lines, we also find it useful to look in under stair cupboards and where electrical or gas pipes come through.
The building are not especially thermally efficient and although cavity insulation can be incorporated to some many schemes involve external insulation and cladding, in our experience enhancing the roof insulation is usually required. Given their age and construction style finding some elements of asbestos in these houses is also common – particularly to stair linings and, soffit boards, rainwater goods and some partitioning. Care must be taken to avoid damaging these and you should ask your surveyor to check for asbestos product specifically. Dampness is not a great problem for these houses but some condensation is quite common, they have an asphalt based damp proof course at low level to the outer walls, typically between the brick low level dwarf wall and concrete panels cast on to the brickwork.
In our opinion, and having inspected a fair number, the Easiform provides good accommodation and is often structurally free of significant problems, research is essential though and apart from your local surveyor we recommend consulting the local authority housing and building control departments to see what repairs may have been carried out previously.
You should also be aware that any non traditionally constructed house may prove more difficult [or for some types impossible] to mortgage or require additional inspections, and that problem will roll on to the next prospective purchaser so you could find it slightly harder to sell.
We would of course be happy to survey one for you, about £500 plus VAT in London and about £450 plus VAT in Kent – give us a call or get a quote here
Steve
Links
British Postwar Temporary Houses – Wikipedia
Council of Mortgage Lenders – Non Traditional Housing in the UK [report]
Additional Notes – Easiform, also referred to as Easi Form, Easi-form, Easyform or Easy Form type houses
Other Relevant Posts That Might Help
Without wishing to underestimate the heartache and damage that comes with flooding, yesterdays stat...
This months RICS Housing Market Survey [which covers April] has just been published and shows a dete...
The number of housing transactions continues to grow across the UK property market, says the January...
Category:
Residential, Surveys
You can follow any responses to this entry through the
RSS 2.0 feed.
You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.






Dear Building Surveys,
It is very difficult to read the text with this FB/Twitter window right in the middle of it, allowing to scroll down the text but the window stays in the centre.
Same for Firefox and Explorer.
Danny
Hello Danny
Thanks for drawing this to our attention, the FB Twitter window should be at the side not floating over the text – were you uisng a mobile deice? On most PCs we’ve tested our site on its been ok on explorer, opera and firefox. We’ll see if there’s a technical issue and correct this.
Steve
I believe that we have recently purchased one of these homes formerly of the Victory Housing estate in Gosport – I was particularly interested in your description of the attic space as you are spot-on to what we see in our own property and I strongly believe from the information given here, that our property is of this type.
I have some observations and a question to ask of this blog entry – our neighbours (not attached) experience significant damp problems, although we ourselves have found no evidence of damp at all so I wonder if perhaps there are small scale issues that lead to damp on a per-house basis that are inherent to this construction? Possibly perforations or compromise of the damp-proof ashphalt? We have found asbestos although your observations of Asbestos soffits concern me as the fascia and soffit both need replacing on our property and the soffit is rendered leading me to believe it may possibly be asbestos (our surveyor was not able to confirm this).
The question I have is regarding the cavity between two semi-detatched houses of this type – we have found that we are experiencing significant noise problems – our neighbours are not noisy or unreasonable, but we hear every little sound they make – even down to a simple pleasant conversation between two people. This is a huge problem for me and we would like to look into some form of insulation between the two houses and I would like to know:
Is there a cavity between the two homes? (I would assume so but I don’t know enough about the construction) If so, is it suitable for cavity wall insulation or soundproofing/noise reduction?
Hello Alexa L
I’m based in London so have no local knowledge of the Victory Estate, but if it was naval or public housing it’s very possible that you have a Laing Easiform house.
In any building there are local conditions that can give rise to dampness internally – for instance if a damp proof course is bridged externally then this can allow water to penetrate, where there is a cavity any bridging of that cavity can allow water to penetrate – it’s not unusual to find the cavity bridged at the bottom with builders rubble, mortar smears and the like. Some types of full fill cavity insulation can also cause the cavity to become blocked, even something as apparently little as a leaking gutter or downpipe allowing water to drain down the face of a building can introduce damp problems.
The asbestos soffits can be finished with a thin layer of render or often a texture Sandtex type paint, you do need to take care and possible over cladding with uPVC and noting there is asbestos behind would work?
The sound proofing will be a harder nut to crack, I don’t know for sure but I would be pretty certain that the party wall is of solid construction – even in more modern houses it is not usual for the party wall to be cavity.
Sound proofing has become more of an issue and for new builds now forms a part of the building regulations. After market sound proofing solutions are quite awkward to do and can be quite expensive but there are companies who specialise in this. In most cases it involves fixing a sound resisting panel to your face of the party wall – these are usually a combination of dense insulation and plasterboard.
These panels are quite thick – probably up to 75mm – and so it does reduce the room size. It also of course means that skirtings and trims have to come off and be refitted, sockets and electrics moved forwards and the walls decorating. Any cupboard or other doors against the party wall may need adjusting. What is crucial is that the edges of the panels where the abut walls and ceilings are sealed with the right sealant and that any manufacturers details are followed scrupulously. I had a quick look online and without any recommendation I found these products – http://soundstop.co.uk/index.php
Hope that helps
Steve
Hi Steve,
Many thanks for your reply. Unfortunately we cannot afford ‘internal’ soundproofing – mostly because I’ve spent time and money decorating and having fitted wardrobes etc and cannot afford to have it all ripped out and start again (We bought the house in july 2011, had it partially decorated and moved in in December so the noise issue was unknown until we moved in.
I was hoping to look into some sort of cavity wall insulation as I am happy to patch up 1 or 2 holes here and there, although your observations about cavity insulation breeching the damp-proof-course does concern me as we may end up causing ourselves more hassle.
The house is former naval housing, however what prompted my question about the cavity is that we have found some limited evidence that there is some sort of internal and external skin – We had to remove a rotting wood panel in the front bay window reveal and found a 3inch cavity between inner and outer skin which begs the question – does this extend all the way around the house? Or, as you observe, is this limited to non-party-walls?
Secondly, during the aforementioned decorating work, our contractor found that one of the previous owners (an avid DIY-er) had rather botched the installation of an embedded socket on the party-wall side and drilled a hole into what appears to be a cavity (although being a no-fines construction there is no guarantee that he hasn’t just crumbled a large section of the wall or found a natural hole…), but we are not able to confirm this without making the hole larger and we’re not really willing to do this at present.
Whilst our current neighbours are not ‘noisy’ by any stretch of the imagination, there is a specific internal door (and we think it could be a fire door as they have extended extensively out to the side and into the roof) that bangs very loudly and reverberates through the whole structure of our house (they have wooden floors throughout the entire house due to one of the residents being wheelchair-bound which doesn’t help) and it keeps us awake at night and in the early morning.
Once again, thank you so much for your reply, it is much appreciated and has informed us greatly in how we approach said noise issue.
Hi Steve and Alexa
I have lived in my laing Easiform semi for around three years here in Plymouth and have also suffered from noise from my next door neighbours especially now they have two small children!!
I am also now looking at soundproofing and hope to use something called “Froth-Pak” made by Dow.
I have a report from the Building Research Establishment dated 1988 which states that this type of property has a cast cavity party wall
I will be investigating in the next few days to see if this is a cavity wall and will post my findings
Regards
Paul
Hello Paul, thanks for the update, do let us know if you find a cavity – we never stop learning!
I had a look at the Froth Pak applications list and it does not list structural sound proofing as an application – you should check with Dow first, because this stuff will solidly fill the cavity, with sound proofing what you’re trying to acheive is isolation between structures – thats why the sound proof panels are fitted with inuslators and need sealing round the edges. You may be better off with a loose fill insulation that cannot transmit sound or resonance? Steve
Hi Paul,
I would be most interested to hear what you found as we may have found the party-wall cavity (as per my first post) by mistake – if this does exist then it will definitely be worth investigating some sort of cavity insulation for noise reduction.
I know that the ‘pair’ of houses next to us also have a sound issue as I was speaking to my non-attached neighbour who has been ‘at war’ with her ‘attached’ neighbour almost since they moved in as they have children and he has repeatedly caused her some hassle (although I suspect if she was a little more accommodating many of the arguments could be avoided so it’s a bit 50/50 if you ask me, but it’s not my place to say).
My partner managed to speak to the neighbours in question and the last two days have been (so far) heavenly! There are still some knocks and thumps but nothing as obnoxious as the door slamming. I’m just hoping it continues and they don’t slip back into bad habits as I don’t want to end up in the same situation as my other neighbour.
Thanks,
Alexa.